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Food review | Izakaya Midori: Maki-ng Plant-Based Magic

If it looks like sashimi, tastes like sashimi, but isn’t sashimi; then what is it?

As Japan inches closer to (finally) welcoming international tourists this October, foodies from all over are flung into a frenzy salivating at the thought of flamed yakitori and handmade udon from the motherland herself.

But with air travel prices eye-wateringly expensive, and luggage too often winding up in a different dimension, we’re happy to hang back and explore the humble streets of the Gold Coast for our authentic Japanese fix. 

One spot that has spent the last two years carving out a distinctive and honestly, mindbending, lane for itself is Reedy Creek’s Izakaya Midori.  

Izakaya, a word used to describe an informal Japanese venue for casual drinks, socialising, and shared-style dishes, is delivered in its truest sense. Although nestled away in an unassuming neighbourhood retail precinct, their atmosphere is relaxed, holds organic character, and is serviced by a team that exudes elevated politeness and endearing attentiveness. 

The latter half, Midori, is where their special spin comes in. Translating directly to ‘green’, the menu, although reflecting all the usual Japanese suspects, is 100% plant-based. 

That’s right; everything is meat, egg, fish and dairy free.

Forging a path along the road less travelled, chef and original owner, Fumiyoshi Iwasaki, is the mastermind behind their vegan alternatives. Previously working at The Star Gold Coast’s Kiyomi restaurant, Fumi’s culinary testimony has taken him across the globe engaging in different cultures, cuisines and service styles.

His ability to mimic cruelty-free alternatives through innovation is nothing short of pure mastery. The texture, look and taste of each dish are so uncannily similar, that it would leave any meat-lover none the wiser. So naturally, we just had to see for ourselves. 

Starting off strong, their smoked edamame immediately grabbed our attention. The perfect balance between sweet, salty and smoky flavours made it clear they were not here to play.

Initially considered seemingly impossible, their Shashmi Carpaccio had us thinking “surely not”. While looking and tasting like salmon, it was in fact the Asian root vegetable konjac. Paired with carpaccio sauce, kelp and onion, the reddish-orange colour, marbled albumin and soft, creamy taste and texture were spot on.

Their Chiki Avo Nigiri, Veef Sushi, Pan-Fried Dumplings and Karaage Don were perfectly executed with a balance of flavours and textures that resembled their more traditionally prepared counterparts seamlessly. 

Standing out visually with a perfect blend of sweet, savoury, spicy and smoky was the Okonomiyaki traditional vegetable pancake. Dressed with drizzles of teriyaki tonkatsu, vegan mayo and dainty florals, this endorphin-inducing presentation encapsulated its simultaneously crunchy and creamy texture that hit all the comfort food sweet spots.

As a final effort to test their plant-based skillset, we ventured towards the Cheese Canapé of Seared Mozzarella with gentle onion pickles, fresh ginger and Japanese mastered Miso sauce. This delicately delicious sorcery sealed the deal, proving chef Fumi has truly found his ikagai in creating vegan replicas of any global ingredient.

While signing off with a matcha and red bean cake, we couldn't help by notice a shared expression of amazement and curiosity across the restaurant. How is everything made from plants?

What we were quick to realise, however, is the how is not important when the why is crystal clear. Izakaya Midori is creating a pathway to the future of Japanese cuisine by consciously considering the environment, animals and human health; which is all that matters.